Tuesday, May 22, 2018

Waipio Valley and Waterfalls {Hawaii, Day 3}

I had seen pictures of Waipio Valley online and was keen to visit, even though all I knew was that it had a great view. As with seemingly everywhere else on the island, it took about 2 hours to get there from our yurt.

We had been told by the lady at the car rental place that this was an extremely difficult hike and we would be forced to beg for a ride back to the top if we managed to make it to the bottom. Since we had already paid for the Jeep, I figured we better use it even if it was a do-able hike.

There is a man at the top of the valley road that gives instructions on getting down and showed us a map of what to do once we got down there. He seemed very surprised that I was planning to drive down and pretty impressed when I told him we drove up and down Mauna Kea without incident. I’m now under the impression that I look like a rather helpless little girl.. anyone want to confirm that?
The road down is rough and full of holes, has a few steep areas and is only wide enough for one car unless you’re in a shoulder section. Vehicles going up get to go first and hikers don’t take up enough space to be an issue at all.

Here are my observations for any future visitors. The road was not intimidating or scary at all, though 4x4 is necessary. We saw plenty of hikers or all ages and abilities, none were struggling. We saw children doing the hike in sandals without issue. Whatever the car rental place tells you, don’t listen.

Once at the bottom we went to the black sand beach first. From the lookout at the top we noticed a waterfall in the distance that I was hoping we could hike to, but apparently it requires swimming at least 3 times and I wasn’t prepared for that. Instead we just walked along the beach and enjoyed the area.


Everywhere we looked we saw coconuts, but all were already eaten. I had high hopes we would find one that we could attempt to crack for ourselves, and we did! It took us a solid 15 minutes of acting like wild animals, smashing it against the rocks, to get to the centre. Not going to lie, I had no idea that coconuts were like that. I thought the fuzzy little round coconuts we can buy in the store were just a different kind, but it turns out they live inside the great big thing we see on the trees. Eventually when we got our fuzzy little prize we decided it would just have to come hiking with us because we hadn’t yet figured out how to get the water out without spilling.



As we continued down the beach we saw a waterfall that we would be able to get to, though much smaller than the one I had been eyeing. Across the sand, over some rocks, up a hill and we were there. The pool at the bottom was tiny and surrounded by spiders so no swimming for us, but it was a nice walk anyway.


Back at our Jeep we drove the opposite direction, past the road up, to see the other waterfalls. I was expecting we would drive a bit, park and then hike to the falls.. I was wrong. We drove for ages, through the forest, 5 river crossings, up and down and eventually hit a very dead end. We could see falls all around us but in front of us was a very fast, deep river that we could not cross and nowhere to park or hike anywhere around us..  While we tried to decide what to do a group of horses came to check us out. One pressed his face right against the window and kicked the door! And since Aly does not love animals that was the end of that. We managed to get turned around, back to the bottom of the road and with no difficulty at all, back to the top.




We thought Waipio Valley wold take more of our day but since it didn’t we decided to see a few more waterfalls in the area.

First was Akaka Falls. We did the walk to the fall in the rain and it didn’t bother me one bit; when it’s nearly 30 degrees and sunny I’m perfectly happy to get wet. Since Akaka is on the rainy side of the island, we weren’t really surprised either. This waterfall, and the one we went to next, are very much parking lot attractions. You can see the fall from the parking lot, though the view is better if you walk the short trail, there are tons of tourists around and there is no opportunity to get away. I wouldn’t let that stop you from visiting though, both falls are really nice!


Both waterfalls are located next to Hilo, which we had planned to visit anyway, so we made it our final stop for the day before our long drive back. I was hoping to go for supper but one of my wisdom teeth had other plans so I sucked on ice cubes while Aly ate delicious looking fresh fish.


Our stay in Hilo was short and the drive home was long but my prize for getting home made everything better. Remember that coconut we found? I got it open. At first I decided that I would attempt to open it with a corkscrew, that failed. Then I decided we need a machete, until I realized wild animals can open them and they don't have machetes.. And finally we asked the internet. Turns out it is extremely simple; Coconuts have three little eyes on top and one of them is soft enough to puncture, allowing the water to be poured out or a straw to be inserted.  I'm now desperate to return to Hawaii and drink all the coconuts!


Tuesday, May 15, 2018

Wild Snorkelling {Hawaii, Day 2}

Sleeping in a yurt in Hawaii with screened windows that don’t close, on a busy farm, is a loud experience.  I don’t love listening to the chickens but I do enjoy the frogs that start as soon as the sun goes down. Travelling west means I wake up early enough anyway, so I could also live without the morning roosters.






For our second morning we decided to find somewhere we could rent snorkel gear for the week and go to Honaunau Bay (“2-step”,) one of the most popular snorkel spots on the island, and apparently one of the best spots in the state.

We hadn’t yet figured out our area and the offline maps we were using didn’t seem to know the area any better than us so we did a lot of random driving before finding what we needed. We got a mask, tube and flippers each for $30, to keep for the week.

The snorkelling area at 2-step is right next to The City of Refuge, you can see it from the water, and would make a nice afternoon out if you wanted to combine the trip. We didn’t visit the national historic site but in all fairness, I can’t resist the ocean when it’s right there!

I had been looking forward to snorkelling again since Ryan and I left Maui last year and even more so since I heard we might be able to see wild dolphins.

2-Step proved to be a perfect place. The depth of the water varies greatly but there is nowhere to touch down on the bottom if you aren’t a strong swimmer. You get in on naturally formed rock steps and are already in 15-20ft water. I have a healthy respect but no fear of the ocean so this was fine for me. Having spent 5-7 hours a day swimming during the summers of my youth really paid off when I  need to be able to swim and tread for a long period of time; the fact that the salt content in the water makes floating so easy doesn’t hurt either.



This area is incredibly lively and vibrant. Almost everywhere you look down is Coral, Urchins, tons of different fish, the occasional turtle and if you get lucky, a pod of dolphins.

We had been in the water for over an hour already, seeing what there was to see, watching the scuba divers and swimming through their bubbles. We got out for a break and snacks and just as I was thinking about getting back in I saw the breaching dolphins in the distance. It took me no time at all to get back in the water and swim out to that area; I really couldn’t pass up the opportunity to see them up close.



I wish I had have thought about my camera battery earlier on because I didn’t get to capture any of it, but you can believe me when I say that having a pod of 10 dolphins swimming in your general area is incredible. The bottom of the ocean was nowhere in sight and the dolphins often disappeared with it, only to return again at the surface 20 feet away. If I did have my camera you would hear an overwhelming amount of excited squealing from my snorkel and those around me. The photos here are from one of the other days a 2-step.




If you are considering coming to 2-Step to swim with the dolphins just know that you need to go out quite far and the water is extremely deep. I wouldn’t recommend going out alone, wear a lifejacket if you’re not a strong, confident swimmer or consider taking a boat tour where you know someone will be watching.

The fact that I was already burnt and hoped not to make it any worse is the only reason I was able to pull myself from the dolphins and back to shore; I could have watched them for hours. Back on the rocks we sat and listened to a group of retirees that come to 2-step and free dive every morning, I could have listened to them all day too.

It turns out I was burning again so I guess it’s good that we left when we did. Our next stop was the Kona Brewing Company restaurant for a delicious lunch followed by Shave Ice, shopping and a walk around the Kona waterfront.

As much as I love Hawaii, and I really do, I can only spend so much time in the sunshine and heat before I need to retreat to cooler places. One of my favorite options is Target. I know, why would I waste precious Hawaiian time at Target?! It’s because I love Target and I’m sad it left Canada, though I think I’m the only one. It has cheap shopping, cheap snacks, air conditioning, Pizza hut, Starbucks and maybe most importantly, WiFi (which our yurt sadly did not.) How could I go wrong?!

As with most evenings, we spent it relaxing at the yurt, eating and listening to the choir or frogs before bed. We did considerably less driving on day 2, which I’m totally fine with, and a got another item checked off my list; A successful day.

Tuesday, May 8, 2018

A Green Sand Beach and The Worlds Tallest Mountain {Hawaii, Day 1}

We arrived late into Kona on Tuesday night, well after my bedtime, and hopped straight on the shuttle to get our rental car. That’s the beauty of travelling carry-on only; other than saving $50 on checked bags, I also never have to wait around at the airport when I arrive.

In the interest of future visitors I will tell you not to get your rental car through Budget. The lady we dealt with was a big liar and pretty much bullied us into an upgrade. Her sales pitch for the upgrade is that 3 out of the 4 top “attractions” on the island require a 4x4 vehicle and that our vacation will just be OK with a regular vehicle. We said we would be hiking 2 of the 3 and she said they are extremely long difficult hikes, “I’m a strong, avid hiker and I would never even attempt those hikes. By the time you make it one way you’ll be so exhausted that you’ll have to beg for a ride back!” Liar, liar, pants on fire. Anyway, the other employee agreed with her and we asked for a price. $330 USD for the upgrade (not including tax, insurance, etc,) we said no. She then swiped her mouse, pressed one key on her computer and said since we flew with WestJet it would only be $180 for the upgrade. Long story short, we decided we would go with the Jeep.

I’m not going to pretend I didn’t enjoy our time in the Jeep, but I have a few more thoughts to share. Firstly, a 2-door Jeep is a highly impractical vehicle if you have any kind of luggage. Secondly, we absolutely, 100% could have done those hikes and I bet you could too. We saw average people, seniors, small children, people in sandals, hard-core hikers, teenagers… everyone.

Moving along now.

We got on the road, drove the 30 minutes to our hostel in the pitch blackness and promptly passed out. Because we were travelling West, I was up by 5:30am and I loved it! Being a morning person on vacation is so pleasing, especially in a place that gets dark so early in the day, it really allows for more time to enjoy.

Our first stop was breakfast and I opted for a donut since I had already had a nutritional shake. Let me just tell you, I love donuts, pretty much all donuts, but this one was disgusting. The donut is actually a Malasada, a Portuguese treat similar to a donut but with no hole. I’m not sure if they are all like the one I had or if I just picked a bad place to try it. I was planning to try another one but it just didn’t appeal after the first one. It was the wettest, oiliest donut ever; I could literally wring the oil out of it.

I realize this post is pretty negative so far, I promise it’ll get better!

Our very first destination of the trip was to the green sand beach, Papakolea, on the southern tip of Hawaii and coincidentally also the southernmost part of the USA. This is one of the places that we allegedly needed the Jeep for and wouldn’t be able to hike, so we hiked.

The trail, which is more of a maze of different dirt tracks, is about 4.5KM each way. The way there took over an hour because we didn’t know where we were going and because I needed to stop often to take photos and enjoy the sea breeze.





Our eventual arrival at the beach was a much welcomed break from walking in the sun. I very much enjoyed taking my shoes off and feeling the ocean for the first time in months while enjoying our beautiful surroundings.

I should tell you, the green sand is not very green. If you are expecting bright green or even obviously green sand you will be disappointed. Maybe in just the right lighting with your eyes squinted it’ll be what you thought, but don’t trust what Instagram shows you. Not to discourage you from visiting though! It was a nice hike to a picturesque beach and that should be enough.






The way back felt much longer and hotter but was met with two and a half hours of air conditioned driving to check into our Yurt. Despite being in Hawaii, I didn’t expect to get burnt on my first day, but I underestimated the sun again. I was too distracted by the cool breeze to realize it was happening.

From South Point we drove back to Captain Cook to buy groceries for the week. Eating from the grocery store instead of restaurants is a huge factor in keeping my vacations from being too expensive. We knew we had a kitchen but weren’t sure what appliances we’d have beyond a microwave and mini fridge. We stuck to quick, simple foods that would be easy to make, fill us up and didn’t cost much.

While shopping we made the last minute decision to drive to the top of Mauna Kea, the world’s tallest mountain, for sunset. Unfortunately, that timing meant we had about 20 minutes to check in, change, kick out the resident yurt cat and get back on the road for another 2 hour journey.

Road trips in Hawaii can be intimidating. I hit an animal for the first time in my life but I’m pretty sure it was fine… (I will continue to tell myself that!) My ears popped constantly from the elevation changes. I drove 14,000 feet up in 2 hours. Just letting you know.

We stopped at the visitor centre, as recommended, to acclimatize to the altitude. The centre is just over 9000 ft elevation and is a good place to check the weather at the top, prepare your body to climb further and read the signs telling you how to get back down once you get up.

From 9000 to 14,000 feet was certainly the scariest and also the most thrilling drive I’ve ever done. Most of the way is gravel, there are no guardrails along the way, it is fairly steep and very bumpy. I laughed like mad the whole way up to keep myself from screaming every time I got near an edge and considered how far down it is.





I was instantly blown away when we reached the top. The view up there is truly one of the most incredible things I’ve ever seen and would recommend a visit to anyone who can handle it, just keep in mind the health risks and temperature. It wasn’t half as cold as people make it out to be, but maybe I’m also just a tough Canadian coming out of a long winter..

I could do little more than stare at the world in front of me while we were up there and I would have been happy to watch the clouds for hours. Unfortunately, the sun set pretty soon after we got there and visitors are only allowed to stay at the summit for 30 minutes after sunset. And trust me when I say, photos do not do this place justice.



The road back down to the visitor centre seemed a lot longer in this direction  but wasn't scary at all. If I'm going to go over the side of the mountain at least I didn't see it coming in the pitch black night... You have to drive in low gear to get down and I'm not going to pretend we didn't have to Google this before attempting. We put the Jeep in 4-low and neutral and rode the break all the way back to the paved road.


It was a long way home in the darkness but so worth it. I had a pretty awesome first day despite driving for nearly 10 hours!





Tuesday, May 1, 2018

How Much Does It Really Cost To Visit Hawaii?

I think by now you have all realised how much I like to talk about money and travel budgets, so here I am doing it again. I get people asking me all the time how I can afford to travel the way I do, as often as I do and to the places I choose to go, now I’m going to tell you.

Here is the key: destinations are only as expensive as you let them be.

Seeing the world in general is more important to me than seeing the world from the perspective of a 5-star resort or Michelin star restaurant. In fact, resorts and restaurants really have no place in my trip plans at all. If those things are what is important to you, find a way to make it work.


Since we are talking about Hawaii today, I’ll try to be as specific as I can and hopefully crush some of the popular beliefs about not being able to afford an island getaway.

This will be my third trip to the state of Hawaii in 4 years. In 2015 I went to Oahu, 2017 I went to Maui and this year I will be in Hawaii, The Big Island. The overall frame of each trip has been pretty similar despite being with different people each time and being on different islands.

I've never had much desire to see the islands from a hotel perspective and I can think of so many better things to do with the extra money saved by staying elsewhere. I like to eat out sometimes, but I still prefer a piece of fruit and cereal for breakfast, that's very inexpensive. I didn't want to rent a car the first time I went but I'm glad I did and the money saved on accommodations was more than enough to cover the car.

I didn’t track my expenses in Oahu, but it was very inexpensive. I was with 4 other girls and therefore split the cost of most things by 5. If memory serves, it was about $350 RT for my flights plus about $500 for the rental car, $2100 for our accommodations and about $300 on groceries for the week. That is only $930 per person for a week-long vacation. Beyond that, everything is pretty variable. If you want to go shopping, that’s up to you, same with eating out, excursions, etc. The Hawaiian Islands are the perfect place to get outside and enjoy free activities in paradise.

All-in for Oahu (1 week in March): Under $1000 each

Where we stayed: https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/3898389?location=Honolulu%2C%20HI%2C%20United%20States&s=733DKthm&check_in=2019-03-20&guests=1&adults=1&check_out=2019-03-27

I partially tracked last year’s trip to Maui and it was quite different for many reasons. Most notably, there were only two of us and we did half camping and half hotels. Flights were $500 RT and the rental car was $255. We did grocery store breakfasts, cheap lunches and had supper in reasonably priced restaurants. It was about $120 for 4 nights of tent camping and in stark contrast, about $1300 for 4 nights in hotels. You can see what I mean about destinations being as expensive as you let them; If we stayed at the camp ground the whole time our trip would have been $1180 less than what it was. I don’t think we did any shopping at all and the snorkels we rented were about $27 for the week which provided us the most enjoyment.

All-in for Maui (1 week in April): $3500 for 2 people

Where we stayed:

https://www.campolowalu.com/tent-camping/


https://www.wyndhamhotels.com/days-inn/maui-hawaii/days-inn-maui-oceanfront/rooms-rates?hotel_id=34006&checkin_date=04/22/2018&checkout_date=04/23/2018&adults=2&children=0&brand_id=DI&rate_code=SSP&iata=05513292&CID=ME%3ADI%3A20180321%3AGGL%3Agha%3ACPA%3ANULL%3A34006

Hawaii. My flight was $370, our AirBnB was $620 (5 nights), hostel for the first night is $50 each and the car rental was $900. We also booked one excursion for $80/person. That is just over $1200 per person for all of the expensive bits. I was only be with 1 friend this time so everything is split in 2. Since we had a kitchen we mostly cooked for ourselves, we did predominantly free activities and I didn’t do much shopping.

All-in for Hawaii (1 week in April): $1600 each

Where we stayed:

https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/13534296?location=Captain%20Cook%2C%20HI%2C%20United%20States

http://www.myhawaiihostel.com/

Now, I don’t know about you, but $1600 per person for a week in paradise seems pretty decent to me. This number could be significantly higher or lower if you changed up a few of the details, when you go, how many people split the cost, etc. For this trip specifically, we could have skipped the vehicle upgrade and saved a ton.


Here is the detailed break down of my 1 week trip to Hawaii:
Flights: $368.24
Car rental: $469.27
Accommodations: $371.29
Food: $72.50
Gas: $90.11
All other spending: $178.61

TOTAL: $1550.02
The cost of the car rental, accommodations and gas are all split in half as I was with one other person.





 

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